Seasonal Gourmet in the Winter
December 17th, 2007 at 01:59pm Chef Dava 63
Personally, I look forward to cooking in the colder months of a Colorado winter. I anticipate all the warming foods and the heartier fare that the body requires to grow a layer of fat and stay warm, with more than one errant taste bud tuned in to the good smells to come. I like the long slow braising and stewing methods of cooking. I like the warm spices melding together in a certain kind of Cooking Alchemy that can only happen on a cold winter day, with the wind howling outside, the sky dark and close to the ground and the snow piling up sideways at my front door.
There is also something very pleasurable about being a chef and stocking up a good winter larder. I walk through my kitchen and my eye is caught by all the different colors of dried Beans and grains in my glass quart jar collection on my counter tops. I see White Northern beans, Kidney beans, little red Aduki beans, Green Split peas, Red Split lentils, Black-eyed peas, brown buckwheat, White Basmati rice and golden quinoa staring back at me and oh, how the recipes start dancing around in my head.
I long for Roasted Pumpkin, White Bean & Sage Casserole, Split Pea & Ham Hock Soup, Red Aduki’s long simmered with chunks of Buffalo and Dried Ancho chilies, Curried Red Lentils with Root Vegetables & Buckwheat Pilaf and I find myself Praying for the weather to turn already.
I get a quirky thrill at knowing I have a case of Nicola potatoes from Small Potatoes Farm in my basement, along with a sack of good Walla Walla sweet onions and 50 pounds of mixed Winter Squashes. Kobacha, Acorns, Butternuts, Sweet Dumplings and Delicatta. Oh yum! I also have a good supply of Dog Patch Farm Inchelleum Garlic down there in a box and if this year is like every other year, I know it won’t want to sprout until February as long as I keep it dark and dry. My farmers grow enough for me to have some carrots ad beets
Hanging form my Pot rack in my kitchen I see the Chili Ristras, Paprika and Ancho respectively that my Monica made me. She farms Small Potatoes Farm with her husband Wayne. It is a big farm for two not so nimble anymore people. Their last child in the nest shows no desire to farm, leaning more heavily to forging metals, so Monica and Wayne till up a smaller piece of land each year and make themselves more useful in other areas of community. I think of all this and the nature of farming and at the same time my mind turns to gratitude for my friends, the farmers, and I start seeing those chilis popping in a pot with onions and garlic and a little apple juice simmering into a delectable puree of sweet and just the right hot, for a garnish on a Curried Parsnip and Pear Soup. You know I will be saving some of that puree in my fridge for a while until I get the chance to serve it alongside a cheesy Omelet.
I go check my freezer and finally I throw away the three year old freezer burnt Supermarket hamburger crystallizing in the bottom of it. I bought that before I knew where “real meat” came from. Real meat comes from real ranchers who grass pasture their animals for as long as possible allowing them to fatten off the land as nature intended. The closer you live to your food source the better that food is for you. Simply said, if you are a meat eater than, Colorado meat for Colorado people.
I make sure I that I have enough mutton shoulder, legs and stew meat from Oogie and Ken McGuire of the Desert Weyr Black Welsh Mountain Sheep Ranch in Paonia. I revel in the daydream that when I make a slow-roasted Mutton Shoulder, caramelizing in it’s own juices, smelling it for the 7 hours it takes to cook, that I will think of Oogie and Ken warmly and with thanks for their integrity in animal husbandry that only a few bigger, meat ranchers in this great nation adhere too.
I never want to start the winter out until I put in a call to Sue and Dave Whittlesey at High Wire Ranch in Hotchkiss. Their grass pastured elk and Buffalo are so wonderful. I literally Jones for that rich, red, lean tasty meat when the weather snaps into the colder zones, I make Tamale Pie out of the Ground buffalo, Chile Colorado out of the stew meat and on Valentine’s Day, m man and I eat Chili and Chocolate spiced bison Tenderloin.
The other reason I love cooking in the winter months is that Summer Cooking is just too easy! I am a cook and furthermore I am a cook who likes to cook. Summer is a fine treat what with all of it’s colorful, fresh, ripe fruit and vegetables in huge supply, but what I ask is so exciting about eating that fresh fare? Really now, all you need is a cucumber patch and a tomato patch growing side by side, a salt shaker and a moist towelette! What fun is that for a “real Chef”?
Nope, bring me some 5 degree nights with a negative wind chill factor, a well packed winter larder and something by Julia Childs and I will cook to stay warm, Thank you very much!
Entry Filed under: Food, Colorado, Aspen, People, Pitkin County, Eagle County, Paonia, The West, United Post

















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